Dd-wrt asus rt-n66u
How to install dd-wrt firmware or tomato firmware on an
WARNING: As of 9-Apr-2013, it appears that more recently produced units come pre-loaded with the 64K v184.108.40.206 CFE, making them incompatible with regular DD-WRT builds. On these machines, flashing a typical DD-WRT build would result in a wall. Since it’s impossible to say the CFE version your computer has while it’s running stock firmware, anyone interested in flashing DD-WRT on it should follow this guide: http://charleswilkinson.co.uk/2012/12/22/dd-wrt-on-the-asus-rt-n66u-with-64k-cfe/ When an official build is available, these instructions should be revised.
30th of October, 2012: RT-N66 CFE The following is a link to a discussion about implementing 64K: I’m not sure this is ready for prime time yet, but if you try it and think it’s ready, UPDATE THIS STATEMENT and share the process, drawbacks, and performance.
As of June 2012, the default DD-WRT installation has almost completely filled the NVRAM. Please be aware of the pros and cons of this problem before it is resolved before installing DD-WRT on this router.
How to install dd-wrt on the asus rt-ac66u
As a result, it’s time to update. I have an ASUS RT-N66U Dark Knight router that I’ve had since 2013 and am currently running DD-WRT version 01/2019. It’s been a strong workhorse over the years, with a variety of firmware flashed on it (Asuswrt-Merlin, Shibby Tomato, BrainSlayer DD-WRT), but it’s showing its age. It has 256MB RAM, so the routing table can handle a lot of concurrent connections, but something in DD-WRT isn’t behaving, and it loses network connectivity after about a week of uptime before I (hard) reboot it. Since it’s so tired, it’s on the edge of active firmware support, and I just don’t want to bother trying to patch it by flashing yet another firmware. I believe I have gotten my money’s worth at this point.
I’m looking for recommendations from the group (please)! I don’t require something out of the ordinary; all I require is stability. I considered a tiny pfSense box with a TBD WiFi AP, but that is way too much for me right now. For a “small” solution, this route quickly approaches $400+. That’s almost three times what I want to pay, plus the WiFi AP will be decoupled from the router, which isn’t ideal for me. Also, since I just need around 1000 square feet of WiFi coverage and the router is in a central location, any router would suffice; there is no need for a mesh.
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This ‘Dark Night’ poses a serious risk of bricking, necessitating strict adherence to the installation procedure. There is, however, a built-in and efficient Recovery Mode. In newer CFE models, the NVRAM problem has been resolved (and K3X builds).
Note: despite being the recommended build for many routers in the Router Database, build 40559 is broken for most routers. To get the most up-to-date information on builds, check the forum “New project” (noted Aug 2020).
Spacers (from 1/4″ to 10mm) can be used to raise the case top, making it easier to reach the MicroSD card and improving cooling. To keep the top cover LED lighting in place, use a piece of dark foam and a hole punch.
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To summarize, the NVRAM does not boot properly after transferring the http://dd-wrt.com/dd…-2 K2.6 big.bin from tomato’s firm web interface and cleaning it. I say, when I ping 192.168.1.1, it doesn’t respond.
Sorry, I’m not sure, but did you manage to flash firmware on it? It appears that you have Tomato firmware installed, but you’re having trouble flashing DD-WRT using the Tomato gui. On the first attempt, I was able to flash Toastman’s Tomato mod; I’m not sure if DD-WRT is more difficult to flash on this router.
– You did connect an ethernet cable from your computer’s LAN port to one of the router’s LAN ports between steps 1 and 2 (or even before step 1), correct? Wirelessly, the initial flashing would not work properly.
– Did you wait at least 10 minutes after getting the OK message in step 4? That is exactly how long it takes. Set your IP config back to DHCP after waiting at least 10 minutes (no more 192.168.1.12, should be back to automatic DHCP). It’s likely that the flash was successful, but your computer’s link to the router was lost, making it difficult to say if it was good or bad.